Pullman Glory Years:
Time Travel on the Private Car Dover Harbor

 

 

September 3-9, 2002
Led by Karl Zimmermann

Itinerary

Tuesday, September 3
After independent arrivals at Washington, D.C., meet in late afternoon in the lobby of the Phoenix Park Hotel, adjacent to Washington Union Station. A little gem, the elegant Phoenix Park is a member of the Historic Hotels of America group sponsored by the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

Stroll across the street for a tour of Union Station, a Beaux Arts gem completed in 1908 and spectacularly restored 15 years ago. Dinner will be at B. Smith's, located in what was the Presidential Suite in the station. These rooms were used by many U. S. Presidents to welcome arriving dignitaries from around the world.

Overnight: Phoenix Park Hotel

 

Wednesday, September 4 (B)
Board Pullman Dover Harbor for a 7:30 a.m. departure in the consist of Amtrak's Vermonter for a fast ride up the Northeast Corridor to New York City. A lavish breakfast will be served aboard while passengers enjoy views of Chesapeake Bay, Philadelphia's handsome skyline, and much more.

Dover Harbor is a beautifully restored and authentically appointed sleeper-buffet lounge from the "heavyweight" or "standard" Pullman era that predates streamliners. This car, owned by the Washington Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society, was built in 1923 by Pullman as Maple Shade, then rebuilt in 1934 into its current configuration. With riveted flanks of Pullman Green and "Pullman" bannered across the letterboard, riding on six-wheel trucks, the car is a time machine, an evocation of first-class rail travel of a more leisurely and gracious era-a time when The Pullman Company was America's greatest hotelier. The handsomely appointed dining-lounge area will be our daytime home-away-from-home for much of the trip, offering an abundance of comfortable space for our small group. Dover Harbor is unique; it's the only heavyweight Pullman revenue-service car still in its original configuration that is certified for operation on Amtrak trains.

After a late-morning arrival at Pennsylvania Station, we'll drop our luggage at Southgate Tower, a stylish and historic suite hotel, originally the Governor Clinton, that stands just across Seventh Avenue from Penn Station. We'll proceed to Grand Central Terminal, recently restored and returned to the splendor of its early years. Grand Central is a Beaux-Arts monument to rail travel. "A triumphant portal to New York" is what Whitney Warren, one of its architects, called the station when it opened in 1913. Few who have seen it since have disputed this description.

After lunch at GCT's food court, we'll take a private guided tour of Grand Central, featuring behind-the-scene glimpses of spaces that ordinary travelers never get to see, plus a detailed recounting of the splendid restoration just completed.

Next, for those interested in seeing more of New York City's architecture, a walking tour of Midtown skyscrapers will highlight the Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, and other Art Deco gems-structures much akin aesthetically to the great early streamliners of the 1930s. Alternatively, return to Southgate Tower to rest up for dinner, which will be at the famous Oyster Bar, a Grand Central tradition since its opening. This great, bustling room beneath arched Gustavino tiles has echoed with the voices of celebrities and other travelers since the station was opened. Enjoy an oyster pan roast or any number of other succulent selections. (Dinner will be scheduled so that those who choose to attend a Broadway show can do that; the tour leader can provide information.)

Overnight: Southgate Tower

 

Thursday, September 5 (D)
In the morning, sail across the Hudson River aboard a New York Waterways Ferry to Hoboken, with great views of the Manhattan skyline, more impressive when seen from the water than any other way. In Hoboken, visit the to the historic Lackawana Terminal, opened in 1907 and recently restored. Theodore W. Scull, author of Hoboken's Lackawanna Terminal, calls it the "finest combined waterfront railroad and ferry complex anywhere in the world." Currently used by NJ Transit, its handsome stained-glass ceilings are a notable feature. We'll walk a few blocks for luncheon at another Hoboken landmark: the Clam Broth House.

Then, back in Manhattan, the first substantial part of our Pullman journey begins when Dover Harbor departs New York at 4:35 p.m., bound for Chicago as part of Amtrak's Lake Shore Limited. As the train glides up the Hudson River toward Albany, with afternoon slipping into evening, cocktails will be served in the lounge. This route, hugging the river, is among the country's most scenic, with views of the rock face of the Palisades, followed by the "Highlands of the Hudson," with Bear, Storm King, and Breakneck Mountains. Pass West Point and Bannerman's Castle as dusk falls, then enjoy an elegant dinner in the Pullman tradition, served on the stylish Indian Tree china used for many years by The Pullman Company.

Overnight: Dover Harbor, en route to Chicago

 

 

 

Friday, September 6 (B, Br)
Linger in bed, then enjoy coffee, juice, fruit, and pastry as Dover Harbor crosses the Maumee River in Toledo, Ohio, then later passes the incredible industrial sculpture of the smoldering steel mills of Gary, Indiana. In mid-morning, an informal lecture on the community of Pullman will prepare us for tomorrow's tour of that fascinating company town. Brunch will be served as the Lake Shore skirts Lake Michigan and the Chicago skyline soars in the distance. Arrival in Chicago is in late morning.

This day's highlights are two tours operated by the not-for-profit Chicago Architecture Foundation. First is "Architecture from the 'L,' " with Chicago Transit Authority's elevated trains providing a unique vantage point for seeing the city's internationally renowned architecture. Here we'll learn the history of the "L," whose circle route through downtown gives that area its nickname: "the Loop."

Next is CAF's Architecture River Cruise, which offers sparkling vistas of the Chicago River and its wonderful drawbridges while spotlighting more than fifty historic and architecturally significant sites. The boat offers both indoor and outdoor seating.

Dinner will be at Prairie, a restaurant that features traditional American cuisine, with emphasis on produce and specialties of the Midwest, served in an elegant space designed in emulation of Frank Lloyd Wright's Prairie School architecture and furnishings. End the evening with nightcaps in Dover Harbor's lounge.

Overnight: Dover Harbor in Chicago Union Station

 

Saturday, September 7 (B, L,D)
After breakfast aboard Dover Harbor, leave by taxi for an all-day tour of Prairie Avenue and the town of Pullman. Called "How Both Halves Lived," this tour-co-sponsored by the Glessner House Museum and the Historic Pullman Foundation-perfectly complements our travels aboard an historic Pullman car.

The day begins on Prairie Avenue on the Near South Side, Chicago's first "Gold Coast," home of the Philip Armours, the Marshall Fields, the John Glessners, and the George Pullmans. The Glessner House is now a National Historic Landmark, and the tour starts there as we learn how a wealthy family (and their servants) lived at the end of the 19th century. The docents that take us through the house next lead us on a walking tour of the Prairie Avenue Historic District. (The Pullmans, whose mansion no longer exists, were neighbors of the Glessners.)

A Metra Electric local train will whisk us south along the Illinois Central right-of-way to the Pullman Historic District­­the route Pullman himself used to get to work more than a century ago. Among the country's first planned industrial towns, Pullman was designed by architect Solon S. Beman and landscape architect Nathan Barrett. About 1,740 residential units were built between 1880 and 1885 (95 percent of which survive), along with a hotel, churches, library, markets, businesses, and social halls-everything you'd expect in a complete community (except saloons). After an included lunch at the former Pullman Club for executives (built in 1881 and now a private restaurant), we take an interpretive tour of the Pullman Historic District to experience this fascinatingly hierarchical, paternalistic community. A guided walk through the town and a video at the visitor center tell the fascinating, controversial story of George M. Pullman and his town. We'll also be welcomed into the home of a current Pullman resident to see the restored interior of one of the row houses.

Afterwards, a Metra train will carry us back downtown, just in time for cocktails and dinner aboard Dover Harbor. At 7:55 p.m. we leave Chicago for Washington as part of the Cardinal, which will travel the former Chesapeake & Ohio route across West Virginia, perhaps the East's most scenic. Before turning in, we'll watch a slide presentation featuring "The 20 Best Railway Experiences in the World," as chosen by the editors of The International Railway Traveler.

Overnight: Dover Harbor, en route to Washington

 

Sunday, September 8 (B, L)
This long, leisurely day on the rails is the perfect way to wind up our tour, with both breakfast and luncheon served in the best dining-car tradition at Dover harbor's elegant tables. Early risers may see the little Ohio River town of Maysville, Kentucky. The scenic highlight of the run--the winding traverse of the spectacular New River Gorge, which will take the better part of the morning-will be just a few hours ahead. Much of the Gorge, which begins at Gauley Bridge (where the New and Gauley Rivers meet to form the Kanawha) and continues on to Hinton, both in West Virginia, can be seen only by rail passengers and white-water rafters. We'll pass Hawks Nest and Thurmond, the ghost town that lines the tracks deep in the Gorge.

After leaving the New River Gorge, we'll traverse Big Bend Tunnel, where John Henry, the legendary "steel-driving man" of folk song, lost his battle with the steam drill. The landscape eases from fierce to bucolic as the Cardinal passes by the Greenbrier Hotel, the famous resort developed by the C&O in White Sulphur Springs, Virginia, then runs through the University of Virginia campus at Charlottesville, Virginia. The last vistas of the trip are magnificent: the great monuments and memorials of Washington illuminated in the gathering dusk, seen from the bridge over the Potomac River.

At a festive farewell cocktail party aboard Dover Harbor-perhaps tinged with the melancholy of last nights and parting-our small band of fellow travelers will compare notes and perhaps plan future trips before the Cardinal's arrival at Washington, scheduled for 7:35 p.m. For many, the substantial hors d'oeuvres accompanying cocktails may be a sufficient evening meal. Otherwise, the food court and fine restaurants at Washington Union Station provide a myriad of opportunities for dining.

Overnight: Phoenix Park Hotel

 

Monday, September 9
After this scenic and historic circle tour encompassing 2105 mile of rail travel, featuring much of the East's finest scenery, independent departures-by air or by Amtrak-will take us back to our homes and 21st century lives, having stepped back briefly into the unhurried, opulent era of George M. Pullman and his historic cars and company.

Important information:
The intimate size of our group, a product of the capacity of Dover Harbor, allows us to make this an experience different from the typical tour-rather like a group of friends traveling together. No bus transfers. As the above itinerary makes clear, we'll sometimes be using public transportation, and a certain amount of walking will be required-up to perhaps a dozen blocks in cities. Please note that you would be welcome to take a taxi on your own but that the ability to walk will allow the passenger to take full advantage of all this tour will offer.

Sleeping accommodations aboard Dover Harbor are essentially as-built in 1934: double bedrooms with upper and lower berths and a sink and toilet in the room. In a compromise between history and utility, a shower has been added at the end of the car.

For off-train lunches and dinner, we'll be dining together in the main dining rooms of outstanding restaurants with excellent and varied menus. Rather than arbitrarily pre-selecting one-size-fits-all menus and including these meals in the tour price, we've chosen to let participants order food and beverages of personal choice off the regular menus and pay directly. On the other hand, all meals and beverages (including wines and liquor) aboard Dover Harbor are included in the tour price. Luncheon at Pullman is also included, as are all the tours, travel, lodging and gratuities for all included services.

Tour includes:
- Accommodation in first-class hotels and aboard the Dover Harbor as noted
- Tour of Union Station, Washington, DC
- Private, guided tour of New York City's Grand Central Terminal
- Walking tour of New York City's architecture
- Ferry to Hoboken and tour of Lackawana Terminal
- Two Chicago Architecture Foundation Tours: "Architecture from the L" and "Architecture River Cruise"
- Full-day Prairie Avenue tour: "How the Other Half Lived"
- Table d'hôte meals as indicated: B=breakfast, L=lunch, D=dinner
- All gratuities for all included meals and services, including gratuities to the train staff
- Porterage between all hotels and the train
- All transfers and sightseeing tours as listed
- Gratuities for included meals and services on the land program
- Services of full-time tour leader and lecturer, Karl Zimmermann, including lectures and slide presentation.
- Taxes for all included accommodation and services

Not included:
Airfare, transfers to/from the airport, personal expenses, travelers insurance, excess baggage fees, phone calls, telexes or faxes, meals and beverages other than those listed on the itinerary, laundry, airport departure taxes and any other items not specifically stated.

Land cost of the tour: (based on double occupancy):
$3,995 per person

Prices are for IRT Society members only. Non-members add $50 per person.

 

Tour Conditions

How to Book: Call our tour desk at 1-800-IRT-4881 to make a reservation. A deposit of 33% of the total trip cost is required. Deposits can be made by check or credit card (Mastercard, Visa, or Discover). Reservations are on a first-come, first-served basis. Final payment is made by check 90 days before departure.

Cancellations: Notice of cancellations must be received by this office in writing before 90 days prior to departure and are subject to a $250 per-person administrative fee. Final payment is due 90 days before the trip. Cancellations occurring within 90 days prior to the trip are nonrefundable. No refunds will be made in the event of "no-shows" or cancellations the day of the trip. No refund will be given for unused portions of the tour.

Insurance: We strongly recommend that all passengers protect themselves with tour insurance to cover costs in the event of cancellation. Upon booking (or in advance upon request), we will send a brochure about tour interruption/cancellation insurance. We recommend purchasing coverage immediately upon booking. In order to cover pre-existing conditions, coverage must be purchased within 10 days of the initial trip deposit.

Minimum/Maximum Participants: This tour must have 8 passengers in order to qualify for special group rates.

Price does not include: Airfare; personal expenses such as laundry; telephone calls; meals and alcoholic beverages not listed in the included section; optional sightseeing excursions; services other than those specifically mentioned in the included section; transfers and baggage handling on the day of arrival and departure; accident; sickness, trip cancellation and baggage insurance; and excess baggage charges on aircraft. Please note: our tours officially begin at the first hotel. The tour does not include porterage from the airport to the first hotel; or from the last hotel to the airport.

Medical: Any physical or mental condition which may require special medical attention must be reported in writing. As noted in the itinerary, this tour will require walking and use of public transportation.

Baggage: Baggage and personal effects are taken at the owners' risk throughout the trip and baggage insurance is strongly recommended. Please note that baggage limitations vary depending on your airline. In general, porterage of one larger bag is included. Passengers will be expected to abide by the stated baggage number and weight limits specified in pre-tour documentation.

Responsibility: The Society of International Railway Travelers, Inc. (IRT) and Hardy Publishing Co., Inc. (HPC), parent company of The Society of International Railway Travelers, act only as agents for the passenger with respect to travel services. IRT and HPC do not own or operate any of the suppliers of services or accommodations for your trip. As a result, IRT and HPC are not responsible for any negligent or willful act or failure to act of any such supplier of any other third party over whom IRT and HPC have no control. We can assume no responsibility nor liability in whole or in part for any delays, delayed or changed departure or arrival, missed carrier connections, loss, damage, weather, strikes, acts of God, circumstances beyond our control, force majeure, war, quarantine, criminal activity, expense, accident, sickness, injury or death to person or property, or mechanical defect, failure, or negligence of any nature howsoever caused in connection with any accommodations, restaurant, transportation or other services, for any substitution of hotels or of common carrier equipment beyond our control, with or without notice, or for any additional expenses occasioned thereby. If due to weather, flight schedules or other uncontrollable factors you are required to spend an additional night, you will be responsible for your own hotel, transfers and meal costs. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour due to these causes or voluntary cancellations. Baggage is at the owner's risk entirely.

No revisions of the printed itinerary or the "included" section are anticipated; however, IRT and HPC reserve the right to make changes at any time and for any reason, with or without notice, and IRT and HPC shall not be liable for any loss whatsoever to passengers by reason of such cancellation, substitution or changes. All fares as well as ship and train schedules, port calls, hours of arrival and departure, special programs, and guest lecture series (if applicable), are subject to change without prior notice. IRT and HPC shall not be required to refund any portion of the fare nor make any other compensation under these circumstances. IRT and HPC cannot be responsible for penalties assessed by air carriers that may result due to operational and/or itinerary changes, regardless if the passenger and/or IRT and HPC make the flight arrangements. Any additional expenses resulting from the above will be paid by the individual passenger. IRT and HPC reserve the right to substitute a similar category for those listed in this brochure. IRT and HPC reserve the right to increase the tour price in the event of cost increases due to changes in air fares, currency fluctuations or fuel surcharges and such increases are to be paid to IRT and HPC by the tour participant upon notice to the tour participant of such increases.

The air tickets when issued shall constitute the sole contract between the air company concerned and the purchaser of these tours and/or passenger. The airlines and other transportation companies concerned are not to be held responsible for any act, omission, or event during the time passengers are not on board their conveyances.

By forwarding of deposit, the passenger certifies that he/she does not have any mental, physical or other condition of disability that would create a hazard for him/herself or other passengers and accepts the terms of this contract.

Behavior: Passengers are expected to behave in a reasonable manner toward other passengers, IRT tour guides and other persons with whom we have contact during our tour. If a passenger behaves, in the opinion of the tour guide, in a way likely to disrupt the enjoyment or endanger to safety of other passengers the tour manager will issue him or her with a verbal warning. Should this not resolve the matter a second, written, warning will be issued. If the disruptive behavior continues after the second warning then the passenger will be removed from the tour and will have to make his or her own arrangements to return home. No refunds for the untravelled portion of the tour will be entertained. The right is retained to refuse any application for reservation(s), cancel any reservation(s) or decline to accept or retain any person as a member of the tour group at any time should such a person's health, mental condition, physical infirmity or attitude jeopardize the operation of the tour or the rights, welfare, or enjoyment of other participants.

Rates quoted are based on tariffs and exchange current at the time of printing and are subject to changes therein, at or before the time of departure. No revisions of the printed itinerary or its included features are anticipated; however, the right is reserved to make any changes without notice, that might become necessary, with the mutual understanding that any additional expenses will be paid by the individual passenger. Baggage is at the owner's risk throughout the trip, unless insured. The right is retained to refuse any application for reservation(s), cancel any reservation(s) or decline to accept or retain any person as a member of the tour group at any time.

Complaints: We strive to offer the very best value in travel services to our members. However, if you have a complaint during your journey, please bring it to the attention to one of your tour leaders. Should the problem remain unsolved, please write to the Society at its main office (Hardy Publishing Co., and The Society of International Railway Travelers are located at 1810 Sils Ave., Louisville, KY 40205). We will not consider any claims not made to us within two months of completion of your journey. All claims will be settled by arbitration in Louisville, Kentucky.

Please call us with questions, bookings:
800-IRT-4881
www.irtsociety.com

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