A Caspian Odyssey Along the Ancient Silk Road

This morning we spend time touring Tashkent, this modern Soviet-style city which was rebuilt following the devastating earthquake of 1966. Our tour of the city includes the Old Town, where traditional homes and religious buildings line the narrow streets. In a small library here we will be privileged to see one of Islam’s most sacred relics – the world’s oldest Koran. This is followed by a visit to the Railway Museum and the Museum of Applied Arts.

In the evening we board our Golden Eagle private train and start our rail adventure to Yerevan.

Just the mention of Samarkand instantly conjures up evocative images of the Silk Road, more so than any other town. Founded in the 6th century BC, Samarkand’s stunning architecture hints at its former status as one of the most important cities in Asia and is particularly noted for its architectural remains from the 14th to the 17th century, when it flourished as the fabled capital of the Mongol empire of Timur and his successors.

Today, we will visit some of its most significant sites including Registan Square, the refined elegance of the beautifully proportioned Bibi Khanum Mosque and the Ulag Beg observatory, one of the earliest Islamic astronomical observatories built in 1428. Before dinner we will return to the now illuminated and awe-inspiring Registan Square.

Bukhara is quite simply outstanding and worthy of an extended two-day visit. UNESCO sponsored the renovation of much of the city for its 2,500th anniversary in 1999. The city is a treasure trove of historical buildings and architectural monuments – many of which are excellently preserved.

Our tour of the area will begin with a visit to the Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace (translating to ‘a palace-like stars and moon’). The grand palace offers an insight into local life with displays featuring regional clothing, traditional embroidery, and ceramic creations. From the palace, we will visit Chor Minor Madrasa. Translating to ‘Four Towers’, the Chor Minor continues to create architectural interest with its creative and unique design. Interestingly, each of the 17-metre towers feature a different design – said to represent the four different religions.

After a delicious lunch at a local restaurant, we visit Shukhov Tower – a water tower erected in 1929. We will ascend by lift to reach the top of the observation tower and enjoy the best view of the Old Town of Bukhara. Our afternoon concludes with a trip the breath-taking Ark Fortress. This “Noble Abode” perfectly captures the oriental exoticism of Uzbekistan.

In the evening, sample the finest Bukharian cuisine as we dine in the rooftop restaurant of the Minorai Kalon Hotel. From this magnificent spot, we will enjoy the finest views of the Kalyan Square at sunset.

Bukhara is a magical city; whereby modern life entwines with archaic architecture and an otherworldly allure. Our morning begins with a visit to the Lyabi Hauz Square. Translating as ‘around the pool’, Lyabi-Hauz is a square built around a pool, shaded by lush mulberry trees and local tearooms. Here we will see the fascinating blend of old and new – local tea rooms stand next to evening jazz bars and western-style coffee shops.

To the west of the square stands the oldest mosque in Bukhara – Magoki Attori. Constructed in 714, the mosque represents the emergence of Islam in this region. The UNESCO site boasts an incredibly grand exterior, with carved columns, intricate decorative trimmings, and imposing arches. Our explorations bring us to Kalyan Square and the iconic Kalyan Mosque. Featuring a traditional design – large maksura rooms, pillar-domed galleries and deeply recessed niches – a walk around the site will transport you back to a long-gone era.

After lunch in the Lyabi-Hauz area, there will free time to explorer Bukhara further at your own pace. Take the time to visit the beautiful bazaars which decorate the Lyabi-Hauz Square, or maybe stop to sample the produce from the “Chaihanas” tearooms.

In the evening, enjoy the unique experience of a traditional Uzbek BBQ on the train platform by the Golden Eagle. It is hard to miss the aromatic aromas of fresh BBQs as we have been exploring the streets of Uzbekistan, and now is the chance to sample some of these delicious dishes. Succulent meats, richly marinated and flamed grilled on an open fire…these melt in your mouth dishes are the perfect end to a day of adventure. We re-board the train as we head for our final destination of Samarkand arriving late evening.

Today, we travel to the ancient city of Khiva, founded 2,500 years ago. As one of the Silk Road’s most important trading posts and now a World Heritage Site, it lies at the crossroads of the routes between Mongolia, Russia, China and Persia. A truly magnificent sight to behold, it rises out of the desert to reveal a wealth of impressive architecture. Stepping back in time, we discover its impressive mosques, madrassas, bazaars and minarets within Khiva’s ancient walls.

The Golden Eagle makes a brief scheduled stop at Ichoguz, where we have the option to leave the train and make a short journey to Darvaza’s famous burning gas crater, a spectacular sight best seen at night. Located in the middle of the Kara Kum desert where the area is rich in natural gas, the 70-metre-wide crater is known by the locals as the ‘Door to Hell’ and has been burning for over 40 years. A unique experience that is not to be missed.

Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan is known as the ‘Las Vegas of the Kara Kum’. Situated between the Kara Kum desert and the Kopet Dag mountain range, Ashgabat is a relatively modern city built upon the ruins of the Silk Road city of Konjikala. The Soviet city was largely rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1948.

The city’s extravagant fountains, golden domes and towering modern buildings appear strangely incongruous in this desert setting. Highlights on our visit include a visit to the National Museum and Kipchak Mosque.

Tonight, we stay for one night in Ashgabat while our train is loaded on the ferry to cross the Caspian Sea.

Today we fly from Ashgabat to Baku and stay at the five-star Four Seasons Baku (or similar) for one night.

Baku, capital of Azerbaijan, lies on the western shore of the Caspian Sea and the southern side of the Apsheron Peninsula, around the wide, curving sweep of the Bay of Baku. The bay, sheltered by the islands of the Baku Archipelago, provides the best harbor of the Caspian Sea, while the Apsheron Peninsula gives protection from violent northerly winds. Baku derives its international importance from its huge oil industry. The core of present-day Baku is the Old Town, or fortress of Icheri-Shekher. Most of the walls, strengthened after the Russian conquest in 1806, survive, as does the 90 ft (27 m) tower of Kyz-Kalasy (Maiden Tower, 12th century). The walled old town is highly picturesque, with its maze of narrow alleys and ancient buildings. These include the Palace of the Shirvan-Shahs, now a museum, the oldest part of which dates from the 11th century. Also of the 11th century is the Synyk-Kala Minaret and Mosque (1078-79).

Other notable historic buildings are the Law Court (Divan-Khan), the Dzhuma-Mechet Minaret, and the mausoleum of the astronomer Seida Bakuvi. Around the walls of the fortress, the regular streets and imposing buildings of modern Baku rise up the slopes of the amphitheater of hills surrounding the bay.

This morning we offer a Freedom of Choice tour to Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape. Located 40 miles (64 km) from Baku on the west bank of the Caspian Sea, Gobustan is an outstanding archaeological site of more than 6,000 pre-historic rock engravings. The area also features the remains of inhabited caves, settlements and burials. This is followed by lunch overlooking the Caspian Sea.

Tonight we re-join the Golden Eagle in Baku and continue our journey into Georgia.

Heading into Georgia, we visit Tbilisi. Hemmed in by the Surami Range, the city extends for 17 miles (27 km) along the banks of the River Kura. Despite the wars and fires which caused innumerable changes in the topography of Tbilisi, the old part of the city still retains much of its original layout, a spider’s web of narrow winding streets and alleyways.

Historical sites we visit include the 13th century Metekhi church, a cross cupola church which forms part of the Royal Residential complex, and the 5th century Sioni Cathedral, the main church of Tbilisi. We’ll also visit the recently built Holy Trinity Cathedral, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world and take a walking tour of the old town and Rustaveli Avenue. Here we will see the Great Hall of the Georgian Philharmonia, built in 1969-71, which has been acknowledged as one of the finest public buildings since the Second World War. We’ll see the treasures of the city housed in the Janashia Museum of Georgia.

Today we explore the beautiful Kakheti region, which borders the Great Caucasus Mountain range. This region is known as a birthplace of Georgian viticulture and wine-making. We tour the Tsinandali country estate of the Alexandre Chavchavadze family with a marvelous garden, house-museum, park and winery dating back to the 19th century, located near Telavi, a couple of hours’ drive from Tbilisi.

We visit the city of Mtskheta, Georgia’s Old Capital. Due to its historical significance and numerous ancient monuments, Mtskheta became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.

The famous cave city of Uplistsikhe dates from the 6th century BC and is first mentioned in the chronicles of the 1st century AD. Carved into rocky plateau we find huge echoing halls, meandering corridor-streets, chambers for pagan worship and even the remains of Georgia’s oldest theatre, complete with auditorium, stage and orchestra pit. Like the other cave-towns of Georgia, it is rooted in the prehistoric traditions of the peoples of the Near East. On one side the fortress was protected by the Mtkvari and an almost vertical rock face, on the other, by powerful fortifications. Its strategic position on the approaches to Gori and, in particular, its strong defenses made it possible to control the surrounding terrain. There were numerous attempts to destroy Uplistsikhe. Only in the 13th century, however, did the hordes of Genghis Khan’s son Khulagu succeed in doing so, after capturing and destroying many fortresses in Transcaucasia with the help of siege machines. The 5,000 inhabitants of Uplistsikhe perished and life ended forever in the fortress.

Gori is one of the oldest cities in Georgia, founded in the 7th century AD as Tontio. Joseph Stalin, the Soviet leader, was born here in 1879 and he spent his childhood years in the city and later (1888-94) studied at its theological seminary. The small house where Stalin was born is preserved under a canopy outside the huge columned palace-like building that houses the Stalin Museum. To the side of the museum is Stalin’s private railway carriage. The museum is filled with interesting photographs of the man responsible for more deaths and suffering than any other human being. From the town we will go directly to Uplistsikhe where we will have a private performance of traditional Georgian polyphonic singing.

On the fast-running Mtkvari River in the middle of the Borjomi Gorge stands the town of Borjomi. The entire gorge is a vast natural preserve situated at an altitude of 2,625 feet (800 meters) above sea level and dotted with spa towns, and summer villas which date back to the latter half of the 19th century.

In Mineral Park is a former Romanov Palace; set in superb gardens it is an idyllic setting with a ruined castle perched overlooking the river and gorge. The most famous mineral water of the former USSR, ‘Borjomi’, is bottled here – over 300,000,000 bottles per year.

We’ll continue to Dilijan to visit the nearby Monastery of Haghpat, built between the 10th and 14th centuries. Its beautiful location in dense wood in the gorges of two small mountain rivers make an atmospheric backdrop for St. Astvatsatsin Church, its most important building.

Our train takes a scenic route today around the stunning Lake Sevan and we make a short stop to walk to the beach for a photo opportunity. Along with Lake Van and Lake Urmia, Sevan was considered one of the three great lakes of the historical Armenian Kingdom, collectively referred to as the Seas of Armenia; it is the only one within the boundaries of today’s Republic of Armenia.

The Yerevan skyline is dominated by Mount Ararat in nearby Turkey, with its snow-covered peak towering in the distance. Yerevan has a rich history and was occupied as early as 6,000 BC. The fortress of Erebuni was erected there in the 8th century BC. Seized by a succession of conquerors, the city later passed back and forth between the Turks and the Persians until 1827, when it was taken by Russia. It became the capital of Soviet Armenia in 1920 and following the demise of the Soviet Union, the capital of the new nation of Armenia.

Our day’s touring will take us 23 miles (37 km) out of Yerevan to the ancient Geghard Monastery. The beautiful monastery contains a number of churches and tombs, many of them cut into the rock. The complex of medieval architecture is set into a landscape of great natural beauty, surrounded by towering cliffs at the head of the Azat Valley.

We’ll also visit the 1st Century pagan temple of Garni, built to worship the Sun God Mitra. We’ll explore the remains of an ancient fortress, palace and baths there. Back in Yerevan city we’ll visit the Cascade giant stairway and inside it the Casfejian Museum of Modern Art.

Following breakfast you will be transferred to Yerevan Airport for your onward flight.